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Are you referring to the Wenonah brand? Here's some info so you can be informed: wenonah.com/Legend.aspx

Just MMA is probably fine! Just fixed a Santee with a ~26" crack from the back hatch to/around the handle. After prepping the area, I ran a bead along the damage and then two more, along either side of the first to increase adhesion. Before putting a patch on the backside I tried to get the repair to fail (better in the shop than on the water), and it held tough! I still patched the inside, but was pleasantly surprised at how beefy the MMA was on that large damage!

Certainly great boats for the price! And you are not alone on dreaming about a thermoformed boat! If you make it out our way in Portland, OR, swing by for a demo! Happy paddling (when your water thaws).

We did! It was pretty scuzzy after we pulled the gunwales, so that step had already happened and we just skipped it in the video. Probably should have just shown it for good measure, but we were just focused on the hard repair. Quick wipe with acetone or a good scrub with rubbing alcohol will do the trick!

If we get another in, we'll be sure to get it on the water!

Everyone should do what makes them most comfortable! This cordage, bow and stern, has about 1,000lb breaking strength.

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe My dad was a mechanical engineer at Plymouth Cordage Rope Company which was the largest rope manufacturer at the time. I once asked him what "breaking strength" meant and he just smiled. To give you an example of "real life" stats I once had an almost new 3/8" 3 strand nylon dock line instantly snap when a passing boat wake caused my boat to jerk the line. The "breaking strength" of that line was 4,400 lbs. Most parachute cord is rated around 400 lbs breaking strength although there is one manufacturer who does claim 1,000 lbs. I'm not saying that your cord wouldn't handle a rack strap malfunction at 60 mph…but I am saying it's not worth taking the chance😩

That was the Wenonah Backwater at 15'!

@AlderCreekKayakCanoe thank you for replying back, keep the videos coming, very informative video! Thank you...does the square stern come in 17'?

@@mr68camero1 not from Wenonah. Esquif makes a number of square-sterns, but they don't have distribution on the west coast and they don't do them in composite construction. Good boats if you can find them though!

Already dried!

Yup! The carry handles at either end will be your best points for bow and stern lines. You can either hook directly to them or tie off a continuous loop to attach to the handles.

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe thank you

Great question! Inwale needed to be deeper/thicker to accept the vertical hardware for the hanging seats. Outwale just needs to receive the horizontal hardware, sandwiching the boat with the inwale.

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe Thanks for the Reply. I'm doing they same thing on a 19' Grumman. Your video has been very helpful.

It's a thin foam gasket from Paddler's Supply and includes blunt-tipped stainless steel screws.

The seat portion matches the outline of the tractor seat, so the whole thing is shaped more like a clam than a book. They attach similarly, and there are both temporary seat back options and more permanent installations. For a more permanent seat back option, check out the CushGear Backsaver (bench or bucket), and for a more temporary option, check out Wenonah's Super Seat (bench or bucket). We are currently out of stock of bucket/tractor seat backs at the moment.

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoeThanks for the info!

Pricing varies a lot depending on how the boat is constructed, which is dependent on the material the boat is made out of.

That's a very good question! They are two very different adhesives, and we haven't used the JB PlasticBonder. The Devcon Plastic Welder is actually a little cheaper than the JB (at least where we get it from locally) and within 300 psi of bonding strength (3500 vs 3770). We use the Devcon because it is what Eddyline glues their boats together with. That methyl methacrylate (MMA) fuses with the acrylic caps on ABS sheets, so really welds cracks back together. I may have to try the JB on a crack and see how it holds up since it's a urethane based adhesive. I bet it is bomber for glueing the faces of materials together, but I wonder how it would hold up otherwise. If you try it, let us know! Thanks again for the really good questions!

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe Thanks. JB Weld Plastic Bonder is a lot cheaper than Devcon around here (Richmond, VA), at least in smaller amounts (single use, dual plunger). Plus, I would have had to wait a week for it to be shipped to any of my usual local stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart) and I wanted to use it this weekend. I tried it yesterday, it cured fast in the sun, self levelled pretty well too. It is a little less flexible per the specs than Devcon, so I would have preferred Devcon. I will reply in a week or two after a week or two of trying it out. If I see Devcon for a similar price, I will grab some and wait until I need it. Thanks again for the great video and your reply.

@@mikem6213 Yeah, you bet. And thanks for the update on your repair! Good to know what the options are. My local source only stocks the Cream color these days, and it only ships via ground, but here's the 25ml kit. I am definitely spoiled by the 50ml with gun and mixing nozzles now. www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/adhesives_glues_sealants/plastic_welder/278

We go lucky and had some old sets laying around because they were oddball sizes - perfect for this little solo. Finding continuous lengths has been a crazy challenge lately. Everyone we've talked to has had to use scarf joints to get to an appropriate length. The reason we laminated the inwale was to get something just thick enough to drop bolts through for the seat hangers. If you hunt hard enough, there are scarf joint gunwale kits out there, but there are a little tricky to find. Otherwise check with a local hardwoods supplier and see what ideas they can come up with. Good luck!

The sticker template serves two purposes: it helps align the four holes for installation and also minimizes chipping in the gel coat when drilling.

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe I think that its important to make sure the compass fits in the recess and use the holder as a guide.

@@NE-Explorer You bet! That's exactly what the template is for - a guide to line up the holes. Paddlers should definitely make sure they buy the correct compass before trying to install something. If you are unsure of what compass will fit on your boat just give us a call!

@@AlderCreekKayakCanoe There are many boats with in deck compass recesses intended to take a silva70p that wont accept the silva70p because the recess is to shallow by 3-4 mm and the silva 70p has a screw on the bottom of it. Using the template is tricky in such a case. Paddlers supply makes a thick standoff to raise the compass to fit for these boats that ended up with too shallow a recess. I would always check the fit first.

@@NE-Explorer That is good practice to know you have the correct product before putting holes in your boat!

Hey Beth, sorry I missed your comment (ages ago)! I'd love to help offer some insight on your issue. I suppose there's a fair chance you've fixed the crack by now, but let's get into it anyway. First, I would not recommend the soldering iron like your friends with the poly boats. That's a very clever solution though - I'll have to try that sometime! For your boat, I would still consider something like the GatorPatch or a Bullseye Quick Patch. Even ambient UV will help those cure. I suppose you could get a UV flashlight like we did, but it has very limited uses otherwise. Gooping some Devcon Plastic Welder from the outside of the damage would work, but that'll be a tricky spot to apply neatly (if that is a concern). Any MMA300 (aka Devcon) product won't work as well under the deck of Hurricane boats because their decks only have an acrylic cap on the top, and it's the acrylic cap that the MMA bonds with. You can also feel free to send pictures of the damage to programs@aldercreek.com if you'd like some more specific advice!

We've seen some pretty cool boats over the years! Some folks may elevate a 360* light on a post while others may install LED strips. As far as a radio, there are a lot of creative solutions if you like tunes on the water, but we haven't seen anyone install a full audio system... yet.

Just a mere $4,645!

Id like more details on this